Mexico City, April 28, 2026 – Traditional ‘fondas’ in Mexico City should be recognized as Intangible Cultural Heritage of the capital, a proposal put forth by Deputy Diana Sánchez Barrios. This initiative highlights their immense historical, social, and gastronomic value, their crucial role in building identity and social cohesion, and the fundamental contribution of women in safeguarding the city’s culinary heritage.
Preserving the Essence of Mexico City
“For Mexico City to maintain its essence, it is necessary for traditional neighborhood ‘fondas’ to exist and be protected. This declaration implies taking a step in favor of the neighborhood; of the right to an inclusive city; of the working people and those who feed them. It is about protecting our history as a city,” Sánchez Barrios emphasized during a plenary session of the Mexico City Congress.
The Deputy asserted that Mexico City’s identity is not solely defined by its grand monuments, avenues, or celebrations, but also by daily practices such as eating, coexisting, and communal spaces. “In that daily life, there are places that sustain our memory, our identity, and our history: the traditional ‘fondas’. Who hasn’t eaten a delicious mole de olla, some huauzontles capeados, manitas en salsa verde, a chile relleno… We have all enjoyed a glorious meal in these places, with their flavored water and warm tortillas,” she noted.
More Than Just Eateries: Keepers of Tradition
Sánchez Barrios, who coordinates the Parliamentary Association of Women for Feminist and Inclusive Commerce (APMCFI), explained that traditionally, ‘fondas’ have served as gathering points for workers, students, and families to share meals. However, she clarified that ‘fondas’ are more than just places where food is served; they are spaces where knowledge, traditions, and forms of social organization are preserved.
From the tribune, she affirmed that traditional ‘fondas’ represent a genuine expression of the capital’s popular culture because their kitchens keep alive inherited recipes, the use of indigenous ingredients, and culinary techniques passed down through generations. In this context, the representative recalled that it is no coincidence that traditional Mexican cuisine has been recognized by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage of humanity.
Threats to Traditional ‘Fondas’ and the Role of Women
“‘Fondas’ are one of the last spaces where culture remains alive, accessible, and within reach of the people of Mexico City. But today, these spaces also face a real threat: gentrification. Because gentrification not only displaces people but also displaces culture,” Sánchez Barrios warned.
She underscored that women have sustained these spaces for decades, making it essential to highlight their daily work in preserving the gastronomic memory of the country’s capital.
The proposal aims to safeguard these vital cultural institutions against the pressures of modernization and development, ensuring that their unique contributions to Mexico City’s heritage endure for future generations. The initiative will now proceed through the legislative process within the Mexico City Congress.
